Those that consider themselves "serious" winemakers shun kit wines -- they are not "real" wines. Personally, I've made many kit wines in the past but truly find my joy in handling grapes. But now, many kits come with grape skins and oak chips or spirals that make kit winemaking really fun and easy without all the hassles of handling grapes. And judging from the quality of kit wines, these can be considered serious -- very serious. I recall one of my favorite wines I judged at a competition several years ago. The wine was simply amazing! It had great depth and extraction. Everything was so well balanced. Aromas and flavors just exploded. It was one of those "wow" wines that we so often talk about but seldom encounter. I must admit that I couldn't believe that it was a kit wine.
And so, while waiting for the Fall season to arrive to make some wine from grapes, I wanted to give it a try again to make wine from kits and share my day-to-day progress with you.
I have selected 3 kits from RJ Spagnols to get a sense of working with some top-quality concentrate sourced from vineyards around the world and working with grape skins, both wet and dry. I picked the following kits -- all produce 23 liters (6 gallons) or 30 bottles.
- Cellar Classic Winery Series Australian Meritage
- En Primeur GenuWine Woodbridge Cabernet Sauvignon
- Cru Select Gewürztraminer
Cellar Classic Winery Series 6-week kits contain 16 L of concentrate plus 2 L of crushed winery grape skins. Although the concentrates contain all the desired color, tannins, aromas and flavors, grape skins will add a little more, however, their real action is in stabilizing color to give the wine better aging potential. Aside from all the necessary additives and processing aids, the kits also include oak chips and spiral to give wine more (softer) tannins and more aroma and flavor complexity.
En Primeur GenuWine 8-week kits contain 18 L of concentrate but with 250 g of winery dried grape skins, which become rehydrated once placed in the reconstituted juice, and oak powder and chips.
Cru Select 6-week kits contain 16 L of concentrate along with various additives depending on the style. My Gewürztraminer kit contains elderflowers and a Süss Reserve for back-sweetening.
So let's get started now!
DAY 1
Sanitation is VERY important. All equipment must be cleaned and sanitized to minimize any risk of microbial infection and spoilage. I use a 10% sulfite solution and let my equipment (primary fermenter, hydrometer and cylinder, thermometers, stirring spoon)Â soak in it for approximately 10 minutes. We need a pail with a capacity of at least 27 L (6 3/4 gal) to allow for foaming during fermentation.
Not sure how to clean and wash equipment? Read this.
My Cellar Classic Winery Series Australian Meritage kit contains a bladder with 18 L of concentrate, 2 L of Cabernet Sauvignon grape skins and a straining bag, two packs of oak chips, an oak spiral, bentonite to help with clarification, EC-1118 yeast, chitosan and kieselsol for fining post fermentation, sulfite and potassium sorbate for stabilizing the wine, bottle labels and instructions.
First step is to dissolve the bentonite in approximately 4 L of warm water, and stir very well until fully dissolved.
Now we pour the concentrate into the pail, and we'll add a little bit of warm water to the bladder to drain out any residual concentrate, and then we top to the 23-L mark on the pail with fresh, clean, cool water.
We then stir the must thoroughly. We'll insert a floating thermometer to keep an eye on must temperature to make sure it is in the 20-25°C/70-80°F range, otherwise, it may not ferment properly or may give rise to unpleasant off-aromas and flavors.
We'll add oak chips and the oak spiral. These chips are definitely toasted -- they have a nice, sweet aroma. I'm really excited now.
Time to add the grape skins. The contents are emptied into a SANITIZED straining bag, which is then knotted and dropped into the must. I'm getting more excited, every minute.
Ok. It's now time to retrieve a sample to measure the Specific Gravity (SG). Both the Meritage and Cab Sauv musts measure in at 1.094, so we'll end up with about 12.5% alcohol (PA). The Gewürz measures in at 1.086 or about 12.0% PA.
We've just sprinkled the yeast pellets on the must surface and placed a lid with a fermentation lock. We're all set to go now.
N.B.: I usually recommend rehydrating the yeast pellets as per the yeast manufacturer's instructions, but I'm following the kit instructions to the letter here.
DAY 2
The Gewürz has started fermenting quite actively within 12 hours. That's the elderflower "in a tea bag" floating on the surface. The reds are starting to crackle, and the active fermentation should soon be visible.
It's almost the end of Day 2 and things are looking good. I was concerned that the Cab Sauv fermentation would not start, but it finally did and all is progressing as planned now. The Meritage SG measured 1.082, the Cab Sauv 1.092 and the Gewürz 1.068. And I love the smell in the house with that hint of sweet oak aromas percolating in the kitchen.
DAY 3
The Gewürztraminer is on fire; it's at 1.024. It'll probably need to be racked within the next 2 days.
The Cab Sauv is inching along at 1.082. I'll leave it alone since a nice foam developed and it seems to be fermenting ok though a tad too slow for my liking.
The Meritage leaped to 1.044 and will probably need to be racked tomorrow (rack into secondary at 1.020 according to instructions).
DAY 4
Things are looking mighty good as Day 4 comes to a close.
The Gewürztraminer is at 1.000 and smelling just awesome. I snapped the lid tight on the pail and placed a fermentation lock to let fermentation complete in the primary fermenter -- as per instructions.
The Cab Sauv is dropping about 10 points a day and is at 1.074. Temperature is a steady 24ºC (75ºF).
The Meritage dropped to 1.022 and so I racked it into a secondary fermenter as per instructions after I sanitized all racking equipment (of course). This Meritage is smelling mighty nice.
DAY 5
All is looking good. The Gewürztraminer has slowed down and is probably nearing 0.995. I'll give it a couple of more days before I rack it to a carboy. The Meritage is still fermenting nicely in the carboy, and my guess is that it is around 1.000 by now. And the late-blooming Cab Sauv shows a lot of vigor and now measures 1.030; it will need to be racked to a carboy tomorrow when it hits around 1.020.
DAY 6
The Cab Sauv hit 1.020 and was immediately transferred to a glass carboy. Look at it going now!
The wine is right at the 23-L mark in the carboy but there is some headspace. This is needed as wine would otherwise burst out of the fermentation lock. And since it is still producing CO2 gas, the wine is well protected. I will just need to top it up with some other wine when fermentation is over and I rack the wine into another carboy when ready to stabilize.
DAY 7
Today is a relatively quiet day of simply watching fermentation. All is well. The Meritage and Cab Sauv are fermenting well. The Gewürztraminer is very quiet and probably nearing 0.995. I'll give it a week now to let it complete 100% and settle down before I start stabilization and clearing procedures.
DAY 12
The Gewürztraminer seems to be very stable and will probably be ready to rack to a carboy in a couple of days. The Cab Sauv surprisingly overtook the Meritage. Yep, the Cab Sauv seems to have completed fermentation while the Meritage is still bubbling, albeit, very slowly. Good thing I've got a a big glass of the finest Bordeaux in my hands to help me through this update. It's hard making wine knowing that you can't drink it for a while yet.
DAY 14
The Gewürztraminer is ready for stabilization and clearing, now sitting at a nice 0.995. It is smelling beautifully and tasting even better. This should make for a great wine once aged for a few months.
First step is to siphon the wine into a sanitized carboy making sure not to disturb the sediment. Actually, the sediment formed as a nice, compact, thin layer that makes racking super easy.
Next step is to dissolve the sulfite powder in a small amount of lukewarm water, add to the wine in the carboy, and stir well.
Now we'll do the same with the potassium sorbate. This kit comes with 2 packets of potassium sorbate, so we'll add both.
Time to add the Süss Reserve and stir. This kit winemaking is great for developing muscles with all the stirring.
I measured the residual CO2 content before I started stirring to get a sense of how much stirring I would need to do. I measured approx 1000 mg/L, which is pretty good and well within my recommended range to maintain freshness and to allow aromas to fully express themselves. So I've decided to simply go with the instructions and degas with a stirring rod and paddles driven by an electric drill for 5 minutes and then again for another 5 minutes after adding the clarifying agents.
Degassing in action. Notice the foaming as CO2 is being expelled. If the wine is not properly degassed, it may not clarify properly.
Now time to add the clarifying agents; first the Kieselsol AND THEN the Chitosan, with a thorough stir in between and after. Note that the order of addition is very important here.
All is good. Just need to top up the carboy -- I used a similar wine (you can use water, if you want) -- place an airlock and bung, and place the carboy in a cool area until Day 42 when it will be ready to bottle.
DAY 28
It's time to stabilize and start fining the Australian Meritage, now sitting at 0.993, and the Californian Cabernet Sauvignon, now sitting at 0.995. Both wines are smelling and tasting REALLY good. Sure, they're young, but I will age them until I feel they are ready to drink and to excite me. They taste very promising.
I've added the sulfite and potassium sorbate to each batch, degassed with a stirrer-paddle thingamajig. After 5 minutes of degassing, I added the Kieselsol to each batch, degassed for 1 minute, THEN added the chitosan and degassed for another 5 minutes. Again, it's important to add the fining agents in the proper order and to degas to clarify the wine properly.
Finally, I've topped up both carboys with similar wine and then moved them to my cool cellar for some aging. My only deviation from the kit instructions is that I will age the wines for a while before I bottle, and so, I won't bottle at Day 42.
The Gewürztraminer is clarifying slowly but surely.
Day 42
The Gewürztraminer is still not 100% clear to my satisfaction, so I'll give it a few more days until it is completely clear. Although I will filter it, I'd still like it to be 100% clear so I have no problems filtering; in any case, there is no rush.
FINAL DAY
I gave the wines an extra 2 months to fully clarify and settle down as I would filter them all -- white and reds -- prior to bottling.
First, I collected all bottles (30 per kit) and washed them thoroughly under hot water.
I used the 2-in-1 Bottle Washer as I can process 12 bottles (one case) at a time very quickly and very efficiently. I use a second 12-bottle tray on this device to load another case of bottles while the first case is being washed.
Then I sanitized each bottle by blasting a 10% dilute sulfite solution using a rinser/sanitizer device, and then I let the sulfite work its power by setting the bottles on a bottle tree. Then, I rinsed the bottles again under cool water, and set them on the bottle tree to dry out while I go and process the wine in preparation for bottling.
First, I filtered the white (whites before reds, always!) using a Buon Vino Super Jet with three #3 (fine) pads. The wine was very clear and I felt it could go through fine pads no problem.
There was almost no loss of wine as I ended up bottling 30 bottles.
The Cabernet Sauvignon also cleared nicely but it would definitely need a #2 (medium) filtration before the #3. This worked out just fine.
The Meritage was clear, but being so rich, deep and concentrated, this would require a #1 (coarse) filtration followed by #2 and finally #3.
All went according to plan. There was about 1-bottle worth of loss on each wine -- this is normal for reds.
I bottled the Gewürztraminer first followed by the two reds. I used a Buon Vino Automatic Bottle Filler, which worked like a charm. I corked each bottle as another bottle was being filled.
I did the approx 90 bottles in under one hour - by myself!
Well! It's all done now! I'll definitely be drinking the Gewürztraminer starting now - it's delish!!
I'll probably try one bottle of each red every so often (every 3-6 months) to see how they are progressing and then drink them when they are at their best. I like them a little older than most folks. The Meritage should be awesome, I expect, in maybe 2 years. It's rich, deep, unctuous, mmm, mmm! I'm not sure if I'll have that kind of patience for waiting.
Cheers.
Daniel
Yes, many, many. Not sure I understand your last question.
Hello Daniel, I am just looking around the internet, considering giving these home kits a shot. I really appreciated your blog, great pictures and information. I was just wondering how the reds were ageing? Thanks
Hi Tom,
The reds are aging very well. These are premium kits and the quality is excellent. And I’m still drinking the white (Gewurz).
Cheers,
Daniel
One of the thinks I like about the home wine making is how we top up our carboy. My wife goes to Niagara-on-the-Lake during the summer to sample and purchase different Ice wines. I keep a bottle of Ice wine per batch of white wine I make during the year. They give quite an exceptional character to my whites. The disadvantage is that those bottles never age well, pretty much everybody tasting it wants to walk out with a bottle after.
I’m not sure I’m following which wine is not aging well … icewine ages very, very well, exceptionally well. I have some from the 1980s that are drinking beautifully.
Sorry I should have used proper punctuation. “The disadvantage is that those bottles never age well: pretty much everybody tasting it wants to walk out with a bottle after…”
Hey Daniel. Thanks for all the great info. I’m a newby. Working on my second batch right now.
1. First, how did you measure the co2. I’ve researched it and I know you can buy some expensive equipment. But I’m interested in a budget friendly way.
2. You mentioned that the 1000mg/L was within the acceptable range. My 2 kits haven’t come with any info about an acceptable range, so how do you know? Plus, this was before degassing, so did you also measure the co2 level after degassing. That would seem more important.
3. You stressed the importance of adding the Kieselsol AND THEN the Chitosan. Why is that? Why only 1 minute after the Kieselsol and then another 5 after the Chitosan?
4. Other kits come with other finning agents such as isinglass. How would you modify your degassing/stirring decisions for other finning agents?
5. Generally speaking about degassing, what visual cues are you looking for in order to tell when you’ve degassed enough?
6. Finally, what are the advantages to extended aging in the carboy before bottling?
7. I looked up your cited filtering equipment, and it’s a couple hundred dollars. I’m not willing to invest that heavily just yet, so could you quickly explain how not filtering might negatively affect my wine or if there are more budget friendly methods?
Hey Daniel. A quick add-on:
8. In reference to number 3 above, what do you think about this winemaker’s point: “One word of caution. When you degas a kit wine they often have you complete the degassing process after adding a clarifier. Most clarifiers are not made of things that are nice to drink. While they may not taste bad or be bad for you the thought of drinking fish guts (isinglass) is just not pleasant. Degas before fining and be sure to stir it well after adding it.”
Hey Brett.
1. You don’t really need to measure CO2; most winemakers don’t because CO2 has completely dissipated during processing by the time you come to bottle. But if you are into kit winemaking and you want to speed up the bottling process and REALLY want to measure CO2, you can. Know that that your taste buds are excellent for detecting CO2. If you still want to measure it analytically, the easiest and cheapest way to measure CO2 is using a what’s called a Carbodoseur or a Veitshoechheim CO2 cylinder. Both instruments work on volumetric reduction method and involve shaking a wine sample in a graduated cylinder fitted with a special stopper-pipe-valve assembly to release volatized CO2 gas; this is repeated until all CO2 is dissipated. The drop in wine volume is then correlated along with sample temperature to the amount of CO2 released from a table supplied with the apparatus.
2. Go by taste, it’s the most reliable method. If you feel a tingle, then you still have too much CO2 in the wine and you need to degas further (assuming you are making a style of wine where you don’t want to taste/feel the bubbles, like in a Vinho Verde. Kits won’t talk about residual CO2 levels because you typical kit winemaker doesn’t care and is not equipped to measure CO2. The kits are meant to be fully degas anyways, to the point where you do not taste/feel it. Know residual CO2 in wine can impact the effectiveness of fining agents.
3. Kieselsol and chitosan must be added in that sequence for it to work; it has to do with the chemistry of the fining agents in a wine medium. Some people have told they have tried the reverse order and that it worked, but I never tried it.
4. You always need to degas completely for fining agents to work properly.
5. The wine will typically stop foaming after a certain period of time, 10-20 mins depending on vigor and tool you use. But again, go by taste.
6. Extended aging in bulk always the wine to evolve slower than in the bottle because you have a much lower ratio of headspace volume to wine volume compared to in the bottle. By extended aging we mean at least 6 months.
7. Filtering is useful if you plan to bottle quickly and you want a crystal clear wine that will not throw deposits in the bottle. You can do away with filtering if you did a good job at fining AND if you intend to bottle quickly and drink the wine fairly quickly.
8. I don’t know who said that, but as I said above, ALWAYS degas BEFORE fining, ALWAYS.
Cheers,
Daniel
Daniel-Thanks for such a thorough and quick response! Really great!
Hey Daniel. A few more for you:
1. In reference to the order of fining agents, all the kits I’ve done have called for isinglass, not kieselsol. Would you recommend adding the isinglass before or after the chitosan? Is chitosan always the last to go in?
2. Do you have a preference between the different price points of kits? In each brand, they usually come in three price points more or less: $80, $130 and then $200. The more expensive usually also means more juice volume rather than juice concentrate for the cheaper versions.
3. Do you have any preference among the kit brands? There’s winexpert, cellarcraft, RJ Spagnols, Mosti Mondiale, Master Vintner, etc…
1. Chitosan is typically used with kieselsol, and isinglass on its own. Different kits are designed differently, so I can only recommend that you follow the kit’s instructions and only use those additives included with your kit.
2. Usually you will see a strong correlation between price and quality.
3. Those are all good brands, but of course there are varying levels of quality (see point #2). My experience with kits is limited.
Thanks again!